L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, superlative gastronomic experience for the serious foodie
The Taste Maker had an exceptional gastronomic evening at L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon in smart Covent Garden, London, UK.
The name is already synonymous with culinary excellence throughout the world, something that attracts both the serious foodies and those keen to experience the superlative in haute cuisine.
The three floor restaurant and bar is strategically situated in the centre of Theaterland, next door to the Ivy club.
Our experience of L’Atelier began with drinks on the terrace, a hugely covetable outdoor space that few London restaurants have.
I opted for a Margarita, while my companion had a Penecillin.
Both cocktails were unequivocally 10 out of 10 for their perfect balance of flavours and we would have happily spent the evening sampling the drinks menu.
We then proceeded to the ground floor dining room which has an opera box feel to it, but with a contemporary twist provided by the green wall (in case the reader is not familiar with green walls, these are real plant-clad walls that oxygenate the air and add tremendously to the interior’s aesthetics).
Aesthetics are, in fact a big feature of the restaurant, designed to prime the senses for the culinary delights ahead. Food as art is the main theme throughout.
No “Fifty Shades of Grey” at L’Atelier! The dominant colours are a strong and seductive combination of black and red, the lighting muted, and the open plan kitchen set as a stage.
We dined by the bar, a prime position for watching the chef and his team weave their magic.
Eminently helpful staff introduced themselves to all the diners and explained each course and the accompanying wine.
The majority of diners appeared to have opted for a degustation menu.
The amuse bouche, Parmesan cappuccino with port, was an incredibly indulgent concoction of tiny morsels of foie gras in port wine and parmesan sauce.
The first course was King crab salad with baby gem lettuce, mozzarella di bufala and lemon, accompanied by a finely flavoured 2009 Pouilly Fumé “La Demoiselle” Domaine Henri Bourgeois, Loire Valley. This light and delicate course paved the transition between the richness of the aperitif and the subtly creamy second dish of Scottish lobster in Lardo di Colonnata, chestnut and Chateau Chalon sauce, served with a fresh, full-bodied white, 2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, Château La Nerthe, Rhône.
Meanwhile, my companion opted for the Seared Scottish scallops, green asparagus from Vaucluse and morels cooked to perfection and interestingly paired with a fragrant 2006 Gewurztraminer “ Cuvée Christine” Domaine Schlumberger, Alsace.
The main course was the Free range quail stuffed with foie gras and mashed potatoes with an aromatic 2010 Vin de Corse Calvi, Domaine Etienne Suzzoni, Corsica.
The piece de resistence though, was the incredibly delectable mashed potatoe – a side worth coming to l’atelier for alone!
The smorgasbord of cheeses was fresh, light and heavenly, served with an incredibly indulgent 2009 Clos Des Paulilles, Banyuls, Languedoc, France.
Conclusion
We were taken with the concept of food preparation as performance art. The reverence with which every dish was prepared adds to the unique experience of ultra haute cuisine.
The degustation menu illustrates the richness and sophistication of French cuisine to perfection.
The wine matching is a testimony to the resident sommelier’s creativity and boldness of choice.
The atmosphere changes from one floor to the next, with the bar on the top floor being more informal and relaxed and the ground floor restaurant imbued with reverence for excellent food and food preparation.
Clientele is international, united in its appreciation for everything working together to create a perfect Central London oasis of impeccable taste.
We are delighted to rate L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon a resounding 10 out of 10 and award it the highest Tastemaker endorsement.
N.B. We have decided to stay away from elaborate and often florid wine descriptions which we feel are the domain of wine writers. Our editors hail from wine-producing countries where wine is savoured more than written about.
L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon
Michelin Stars: 2
13-15 West Street,
London
WC2H 9NE
Telephone: 0207 010 8600
Reservations: info@joelrobuchon.co.uk
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