My Orientalist taste-buds have been richly rewarded during my time with the Tastemaker. In recent months, I have been fortunate enough to visit and review some of the finest Chinese, East Asian and pan-Asian restaurants in London and further afield. My experience at Naga, on Kensington High Street, was one of the most notable of these for its incredibly varied and accomplished menu, its elegance combined with a friendly atmosphere and – of course – its innovative and delicious cocktails. In my review of Naga, I made the point that there is considerable competition in London for establishments offering this type of modern Asian ‘fusion’ cuisine – all the more reason to applaud one that manages to distinguish itself from the burgeoning crowd.
Inside the Red Pocket resturant at Hotel Verta. Photo by Paul Winch-Furness
On that note, it is with great pleasure that I introduce Red Pocket to the Tastemaker’s readers. Tucked away just across the water from Kings Road, the flagship restaurant of 5-star boutique Hotel Verta is already regarded as a hidden gem for Chelsea residents. Although the royal borough may have a surfeit of fine dining eateries, it somehow manages to feel cramped on occasion: one always seems to run the risk of being spotted by a friend or – more often – a casual acquaintance whom you would much prefer to avoid.
By contrast, Red Pocket is situated in a relative oasis of tranquility on the banks of the Thames. The restaurant looks out onto a remarkable view of the river and its various moorings and marinas and, as if to prove itself as a jewel in an already-opulent setting, also sits adjacent to the Battersea Heliport. To their credit, the staff at Red Pocket are tight-lipped when it comes to visits from well-known helicopter hop-offs but some knowing glances confirm that the restaurant – and, indeed, the hotel as a whole – is a firm favourite for the more discerning denizens of an area bursting with oligarchs, oil barons and sports stars.
Discreet and understated though it may be, there is no denying that Hotel Verta is a playboy’s (and playgirl’s) playground. Just across the water – you might say a brief heli-journey away – lies the Wyndham Grand Hotel in Chelsea Harbour. The motor yachts that line up there, or in Albion Quay, or Imperial Wharf – not to mention the looming presence of Roman Abramovich’s Chelsea Football Club – confirm that this is a world away from the public-school friendly vibe of King’s Road. Red Pocket may be ‘tucked away’ for some, but to those in the know it is right at the heart of the area’s true affluence.
The restaurant is situated at the back of the hotel. In Summer, tables spread out onto the riverside walk on the ground floor. The floor above has a charming balcony from which to view the plethora of yachts and helicopters from a better vantage point. Surrounded as it is by such luxuries, it might surprise some to see that the interior of the restaurant is rather simply done. The aesthetic is based on the heliport that used to encompass the building in which the hotel and Red Pocket now thrives. Aeronautical shapes and designs abound, while transparent glass walls allow diners to witness the latest arrivals and departures at close hand.
The service at Red Pocket mimics the ‘underplayed luxury’ setting. As you might expect from a hotel of this calibre, the hospitality at Verta’s main restaurant is spot-on. The staff are attentive, knowledgeable about the menu and friendly without being overbearing. Recommendations are thoughtful – and not just at the reviewers’ table, as we heard the sounds of genuine concern, interest and enthusiasm all around us.
If, however, the aesthetic and hospitality can be classified as simple sophistication in the lap of luxury, the food breaks that trend spectacularly. This is not a menu that makes allowances for the faint-hearted – or the shallow-pocketed. Those with the foresight to order in advance can be rewarded with awe-inspiring combos such as a signature roasted-then-wok-fried Peking Duck with a side of Beluga caviar, abalone with scallops, Parma Ham and truffles or even an east-Asian twist on a whole Suckling Pig (served with pancakes and spring onion) with a homemade BBQ sauce.
The a la carte menu also impresses with its range of homemade dips and sauces. While neither the natural flavour of some outstanding original ingredients nor the quintessential spice-laced fragrances of oriental cooking is lost on the chefs at Red Pocket, they also appreciate the value in giving the customer a little more oomph – rocket fuel, if you will, by which to transport one’s taste buds to another galaxy of sensory pleasure. Chinese cooking frequently relies on such sauces – for dumplings, noodle and hotpot dishes amongst others – so it is good to see that for all its innovations, Red Pocket can still do the traditional things extremely well. Our recommendations? The selection of dumplings for starters are excellent by any standard – but only insofar as mixed, minced meats in pastry can be. True carnivores will go wild for the wok-fried beef fillet in red wine and black pepper sauce. Words cannot adequately express the sensation of these beautifully tender cuts of beef jolting one’s taste buds into life while they almost literally melt in the mouth. This is just an exquisite dish – excellent quality food cooked to perfection.
For more grandeur, try the seafood hot pot. The relatively modest name gives way to a extravagant looking – and tasting – Hunan-style clay pot dish with all the seafood you could hope for, fish and thin egg noodles. Impeccably flavoured and beautifully presented, it is an excellent main course for two or more. For those who can’t decide between fish and meat, Red Pocket’s “Singapore Fried” Noodles (with pork and prawns) are amongst the best I have ever tasted.
The menu is well-apportioned at Red Pocket to ensure that everything is of the highest quality – whether the meal is primarily beef, venison, poultry, vegetarian or seafood. While the prices might send some punters packing, it should be clear that this is a special venue. In Summer, the atmosphere is particularly pleasurable for al fresco diners looking to bask in the surrounding luxuries without overdressing their own occasion. It is an opportunity to indulge in gastronomical extravagance without feeling obliged to dress or behave extravagantly oneself. Simply put, it is a restaurant that I would be more than happy to review over and over again.
For more information or to make a booking, visit www.redpocketrestaurant.com
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