Juventino Rosas’ Over the Waves waltz may be a rather unusual choice of a name for a restaurant in Cahuita, Costa Rica. The only plausible rationale is the fact that the Italian-owned eaterie overlooks the sea and is quite romantic at night.

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We had our best fish meal there: fabulously cooked rare tuna and a freshly caught grilled sea bass under the palm trees and the sea breeze.

The guests were seized by huge excitement when a large sloth decided to perform some slow motion acrobatics in the trees above and this was our cue to leave. Sloths can be cute, but not when hanging over your dinner plate.

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Dining out in Cahuita is both overwhelming and extremely limited: while there are countless places touting for business in the usual style, most serve poorly prepared or triple-fried food. Do not expect salads that you are accustomed to having in Europe. Raw vegetables can be dodgy anyway (deep country farms fertilise with human manure, we read) and $9 would only get you a few finely shredded leaves with 2-3 slices of tomatoes, some boiled carrots and a shaved onion ring or two.

Address: Cahuita, Costa Rica

 

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