Quattro Passi is the initiative of Two Michelin-starred chef Antonio Mellino who brings the concept of authentic Italian cuisine right to London’s doorstep. Incorporating only the freshest of ingredients (all imported, by the way, from his native Amalfi Coast), it’s easy to see why this restaurant is quick to become a winner.
Quattro Passi, my Italian companion informs me, means ‘just around the corner’. Found on Dover Street in the heart of Mayfair, Quattro Passi provides a quick escape to the Italian Riviera, channeled through the uncompromising quality of ingredients.
Immediately upon entering the restaurant we’re struck by the stylish interior: quirky lighting, a trendy bar and great art imbue the atmosphere with a vibrant ambiance. The staff are on form – very friendly and unobtrusive. We make our way to our table with plush leather seats to cushion our forthcoming gastronomic experience.
We start with the Quattro Passi cocktail: an interesting invention, with a tangy-sweet taste balancing each other out. This is then followed by our rose champagne to start us off.
The amuse bouche is a provola affumicata topped off with parmesan – a delicious bite-sized dish, bursting with flavours.
We decide to take our gastronomic odyssey a l’Italienne. A nearby bread basket is promptly emptied as we commence to dunk the slices in the luscious olive oil that has been set in front of us. An interesting taste presents itself: this is not a Tuscan oil and lacks the punch or spicy after-taste. However, the Amalfi version offers a smooth flavour which is the perfect accompaniment for our carbohydrate offensive.
Our appetizers arrive: the chargrilled octopus and vegetables on cream of celeriac and the red snapper tartar on a bed of artichokes. Immediately I am struck by the generous portion sizes. The polpo (octopus) was cooked nicely – chewy but not tough; with a little extra salt (although this is very subjective) the dish is absolutely perfect. The red snapper, too, was outrageously good. Its freshness teases the palate and an exotic sauce, slightly sweet, accompanied the tartar with strips of artichoke on top. This dish is a must-have!
We paired the above and our primi piatti with a white wine from Sorrento: an easy wine, neither too acidic or dry. In fact, it was perfectly balanced – light and smooth and a superb accompaniment (although it is easy to drink too much of this one)! The sommelier is wonderful and advice, if needed, is readily available. We were impressed by the extensive wine list with various French Grand Crus and substantial wines from all around Italy.
Our first course consisted of the lemon risotto with lobster, zucchini and silver leaf and tomato soup with garlic croutons. The risotto with lobster was mind-blowing. A subtle lingering lemon taste infused the risotto, topped with delicate morsels of the tasty lobster. The silver leaf was sprinkled across the risotto as a small gesture of extravagance. The tomato soup with crunchy croutons was also oustanding: the freshness of ingredients was obvious, with the ‘taste factor’ really coming out.
We took a break with a red Sicilian wine, which was slightly young and acidic. However, when paired with our second course, it proved a perfect match.
We then emarked on the beef fillet, spicy broccoli, potatoes and tomatoes millefeuille with blueberry sauce. The beef, cooked rare, had a delicious blueberry sauce which provided a subtly sweet flavour on top of the juicy meat. We found a slight addition of salt to make the dish dynamite. The millefeuille potatoes were also outstanding: tantalizingly delicious with a blend of flavours which caressed the palate. (The grills on the menu also look incredible and we will be trying these on our return visit!)
At this point my companion and I seemed to be bursting at the seams. We tried the homemade tiramisu which is an interesting twist on this classical dish: not too sweet or heavy, and a perfect round-up to the night. To top it off, guests are presented with a selection of petit fours in a wonderful music box – an ingenious and delightful finale.
To read our interview with the chef, click here.
34 Dover Street
Mayfair
London
W1S 4NG
T. 020 3096 1444
E. info@quattropassi.co.uk
http://quattropassi.co.uk/
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