Just off the side of Pall Mall, the Sofitel St James is a cool and charming establishment. For now, the Tastemaker is here to experience the afternoon tea service: a traditional British affair, one which often seems to come off better in memory and fiction than in actual practice.

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The first clue that this is not your usual afternoon tea is the Rose Lounge itself. Light and airy, with retro furniture and chic photography of Paris, the effect is one of chic rather than antiquarianism. A harpist played a selection of popular songs from the twentieth century, from the Beatles to ‘Moon River’. The atmosphere is both modern and nostalgic, elegant and relaxed – ideal for both business meeting and family get together. The staff were impeccable, polished and accommodating, yet in step with the somewhat relaxed atmosphere.

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The selection of teas on offer was cosmopolitan, aimed at both the connoisseur and the dyed-in-the-wool traditionalist. Being neither, I chose to be adventurous with something called Pu-uerh Menghaï. As it turns out, the florid menu description is almost entirely inaccurate. Although it is indeed an earthy sort of tea, the Pu-uerh’s resembles (in aroma and taste) less a fruit salad than a whiff of sea air, or the pungent scents of a fish market. Unappetising? On the contrary, this was simply wonderful on the palate, a perfect brew in flavour and texture. In short, the tea alone is well worth the visit.

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My colleague, not a little perversely, opted for a virgin Bloody Mary. Our servers gamely accepted her challenge to make it so spicy as to make her cry; they didn’t get quite that far, but we agreed that her Bloody Mary was equal to any other in London.

Of course afternoon tea wouldn’t be complete without sandwiches and scones, both of which were provided in ample amounts. The former, true to form in their simplicity, were nevertheless tasty and a welcome savoury balance. The scones, which came in both plain and chocolate chip, were excellent. Soft and crumbly at the same time, rich and sweet; accompanied by generous helpings of clotted cream, raspberry jam and lemon curd, we’ve truly never had better.

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With fantastic teas, delicious finger food, and pitch perfect service, the Sofitel St James goes above and beyond in its contemporary, continental interpretation. Afternoon tea might seem to some like an antiquated piece of theatre – here it is very much a modern necessity of living.

Address: 6 Waterloo Pl, London SW1Y 4AN

http://www.thebalconlondon.com/roselounge/roselounge.shtm

 

This Autumn, to celebrate the arrival of the La Parisienne by Sofitel photo exhibition at Sofitel London St James, the hotel has created a series of extraordinary experiences for guests.

In The Rose Lounge, guests can immerse themselves in the exhibition over an indulgent La Parisienne Afternoon Tea (£39) comprising a choice of Dammann teas, fingers sandwiches and savouries, freshly baked scones with rose scented strawberry jam and lemon curd and a selection of Parisienne pastries including mille-feuille, pear charlotte and rum baba with a glass of champagne. The elegant Rose Lounge has been completely transformed into a contemporary, conceptual exhibition space inspired by a working Parisian atelier with design by French graphic designer and illustrator Laurène Boglio.

La Parisienne by Sofitel is opening at Sofitel London St James from 27th September 2016 until 17th November 2016. Admission free.

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