Around the corner from Lancaster Gate tube, just before the Hyde Park Stables, sits Angelus. An elegant brassiere, Angelus incorporates quality British produce with contemporary French cuisine, targeting current culinary trends.
The interior is instantly charming. A former pub, the stylish entrance flows through, past attentive staff, to a cosy but yet airy space. The Art nouveau décor harks back to its 19th century origins, but it is clear from the menu that the old and new are of equal importance. It is perhaps a little too quiet and there was a sense that the place could really be brought alive a bit of music.
It seems that founder Thierry Tomasin is ahead of the game in the ethical leagues, as he has become the first restaurateur to sign the National Farmers Union’s ‘Back British Farming Charter’ ahead of his new Farming lunch menu. Although the ‘organic/locally sourced’ movement is not a novel idea, Tomasin recognises that this is a step that will ultimately benefit all sides.
Firstly we were presented with an array of fresh warm bread. Although the white and wholemeal rolls were light and soft, the pistachio loaf stole the show. We then moved onto the pressed belly of pork starter. The cube of pork cut well onto the bed of leek puree, which complemented the crispy charred leeks and bacon creating textural harmony. The quality of the vegetables was unusually good especially when handled so innovatively.
For mains we sampled the Romney Marsh lamb and the roasted pumpkin and marrow tart. The lamb was a tower of sustenance, dusted with crunchy cobnuts, surrounded by kale and drizzled with a dark and intense lyonnaise sauce. The tart was springy and well seasoned and the pastry light and flaky. A kick of parmesan and goats cheese curd made this much more than just your standard vegetarian tart but once again, it was the vegetables that lingered on the palette.
The blackberry curd dessert had all the creaminess of a cheesecake and was immediately inviting in all its rich, fruity goodness. A layer of puff pastry sat neatly on top, adding a crunch to the otherwise smooth textures. The coca cola and popping candy sorbet was a bit of a wild card but actually injected a good amount of fun. It was Parisian patisserie meets English country hedgerow. Following dessert, we were escorted into the lounge. The consciously modern décor did not match the elegant ambiance of the restaurant but we enjoyed coffee and petit fours on the plush velvet sofas.
Throughout the meal, we were well advised on wines but particularly favoured the Angel’ium champagne, created especially for the restaurant through yet another of Tomasin’s auspicious relationships with high-end producers. Although we did not meet the man himself, we had the pleasure of chatting to his junior sous chef, Pierre. The new menu, he told us, is something that’s been brewing for a while now. He has been very busy experimenting and hasn’t had much spare time of late. Consequently, he didn’t catch the Great British Bake Off. We checked.
Angelus is named after the historic bell passed down in the Tomasin family and we hope their ethical spirit and creative approach is passed down. Farming lunch menu £25pp for three courses. Until 5th November.
ANGELUS RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE – 4 BATHURST STREET LONDON W2 2SD – 020 7402 0083
http://www.angelusrestaurant.co.uk/
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