More than just a pretty bar
The Botanist, Sloane Square
A beloved haunt of Sloanies and bankers, this brasserie gets positively mobbed, especially during summer months when the clientele spills over onto the pavement outside.
Having always assumed the restaurant area beyond the bar is nothing more than a light snack stopover for lunch and between drinks, I was astonished to be presented with a full blown dinner menu that included Venison carpaccio, blackberries, sorrel, hazelnuts and Port dressing; Roast Anjou quail, smoked potato, salsify and Mulberry sauce, and other mouth-watering starters.
I settled for a dozen of Colchester oysters, while my companion opted for the whitebait.
We picked Pouilly-Fumé, Château de Tracy, 2012 for the entire dinner. One of my favourite whites, it had a distinctive peach aroma and, of course, the unmistakeable smoky nose and taste that sets it apart from all contenders.
The oysters were very fresh and arrived, quite properly, with their vinegar and crushed garlic dressing on the side, as well as half lemons. The white bait was lightly battered with more than a soupcon of spice and accompanied by a tangy capers and pickle mayonnaise. We shared the starters as both hit the spot perfectly.
Choosing a main was a tussle. I was sorely tempted by the Osso bucco, pickled mushroom risotto, and gremolata, but opted instead for the intriguing Scallop and shrimp burger, harissa, Thai slaw and Steamed greens, shallots.
My companion picked one of the specials, Sea bass with creamed spinach.
The chopped shellfish burger was divine, presented on two halves of a bap, with a delicate thai slaw on one and lettuce and tomato bed on the other, and the harissa on the side. The greens were buttery and cooked just so.
The Sea bass arrived with a fine dark crust, swimming in a clear wine and butter broth. The crust contrasted deliciously with the delicate consistency of the fish itself, both cooked to absolute perfection.
This is the moment to mention that The Botanist’s chef is from the Mecca of pescatorian excellence, Marseille.
Pudding was a cheese platter and a glass of port, the Quinta Fonseca Tawny 10ys. The wine was rich and textured, reminiscent of molasses almost. It complimented the unusual selection that included a Picos Blue, Leon (blue, unpasteurised, cow’s and goat’s milk), an Époisses, Bourgogne (soft, unpasteurised, cow’s milk) an Ossau-Iraty, Northern Basque (medium firm, unpasteurised, ewe’s milk) and an Isle of Mull hard, unpasteurised, cow’s milk.
The atmosphere at The Botanist is relaxed as befits a brasserie and the view across Sloane Square quite entertaining, this being the stomping ground of London’s trendiest and occasionally most eccentric. The service is friendly and unfussy at The Botanist. You can pop over to the bar if you want to mix with the drinking crowd or you can stay put and people watch. Above all, do go for the food – just as the French do. It’s easily one of the best dinners you could have in Chelsea.
www.thebotanistonsloanesquare.com/
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