Voted “Indian Restaurant of the Year” in the London Restaurant Awards, this classy Kings Road establishment has perfected the art of turning South Asian comfort food into a high-end eating experience.
Start the evening with one of the specialty cocktails (£8-£10); the refreshing Guava Mojito and the pungent Nimboo Pani Martini are local spins on classic drinks. Avoid the Bombay Rouge: a deceitfully elegant pale pink concoction that tastes very nearly like children’s Tylenol, despite being made from all-natural ingredients.
Someone well versed in the standard spread on an Indian restaurant or takeaway menu in London will find Chutney Mary’s dishes pleasantly unfamiliar – fashionable upgrades from the usual smorgasbord of heavy curries. For starters, the Duck Galouti, a finely minced patty, is deliciously tender and is served with home made blueberry chutney to soften the spiciness of the meat. The Mangalore Prawn Curry, three perfectly cooked jumbo prawns in a zesty sauce, is a tasty main, but most impressive is the Punjabi Vegetable Thali, a vegetarian assortment of mini-dishes including creamed spinach, okra and paneer with steamed rice. Starters are around £10 and mains range from £17 to £25.
The portions are not overwhelmingly large, leaving you enough room to indulge in dessert. We recommend the Fig Kulfi, a cluster of little ice cream lollipops for something light and refreshment after a spicy meal. For something more traditional, Chutney Mary also makes an excellent Gulab Jamun.
Try to request a seat in the back section of the restaurant where a small cluster of classically decorated tables – some cozied with cushions – sit under a leafy canopy in the romantically lit conservatory, for the best dining experience. The larger front part has less charm.
The restaurant is the sibling of upmarket Veeraswamy (reviewed below) and Michelin star Amaya, as well as the budget chain Masala Zone.
Veeraswamy
Veeraswamy is the oldest Indian restaurant in London and it’s still going strong: the upmarket Mayfair venue was close to fully booked when we arrived on a Monday night. Its Swallow Street entrance is guarded by an attendant in national dress and the traditional décor continues into the first-floor dining room with colourful lanterns and exquisite chandeliers, ethnic artwork, patterned dividers and, at the bar tables, little elephant-head cushioned stools. The dimly lit space, with large windows overlooking Regents Street, is warm and romantic, catering both to couples and to families and friends seeking classy comfort.
Like its sister establishments, Chutney Mary and Amaya, Veeraswamy gives traditional Indian cuisine a modern twist. The Raj Kachori starter is gentrified street food: an aesthetic wheat puri filled with a hearty vegetarian mixture, topped with chilled curried sauce and pomegranate seeds. The prawn kebabs coated in green curry are also particularly tasty. For mains, we highly recommend the Lobster Malabar Curry: succulent lobster meat bathed in fresh turmeric, coconut and green mango. The Paneer Lababdar, warm slices of the silky Indian cottage cheese in a tomato and onion sauce, is an excellent vegetarian option. The house naan is also distinguished.
The dessert menu consists of traditional Indian sweets as well as more conventional items, with a special ‘low-fat’ section. We recommend the Vattallapam, a crème brulee-inspired creamy confection served with homemade ice cream.
Service is fluid and friendly and the higher prices – with starters all around £10 and mains between £20 and £40 – are matched by the quality of the food.
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