La Terrace des Oliviers

Bab Doukkala is an older, less touristy part of town and driving through it reminds you that Marrakech is not just the preserve of the rich and famous. It is eminently authentic and teeming with local craftsmen. We were dropped off at a street corner and walked the 5 meters to the riad, to be welcomed by our host, Renaud, an expansive French-speaking Swiss with a wicked sense of humour.

La Terarce des Oliviers has a small courtyard with just six bedrooms arranged around it on ground and first floor, each room looking directly onto the garden and its diminutive plunge pool, and towards to roof terrace.

Its authenticity is remarkably well-preserved: the ornate carved ceilings, sofas and chairs, intricate painted wood detail, wrought iron lanterns and balconies, and original cement tiles, all a testimonial to the outstanding craftsmanship this country is justly famous for.

Birds seem to have adopted the friendly riad and when we left our windows open, we found one of them in the room, but it seemed quite well house-trained and left as we opened the net curtains.

Do not be fooled by the shabby chic atmosphere of the courtyard – the rooms are, in fact, mini- apartments, with their well-upholstered sofas, comfortable beds, beautifully crafted bathrooms, carved wooden doors, a lot of lived-in decorative detail and leather-bound books. Books are, in fact, everywhere in the riad and the selection is staunchly literature rather than beach novellas. Unusually for Marrakech, each room has coffee and tea facilities (kettle, espresso machine, tea bags and coffee capsules).

The roof terrace is very, very pretty, with white sofas and flowers everywhere . The second floor has its own covered terrace/sitting area, one of several where breakfast can be served.

Breakfast is a great thing at Terrace des Oliviers – unpretentious, unhurried, anytime, full Moroccan, complete with two types of pancakes, fresh baguettes, olive oil, orange juice, great coffee and succulent slices of melon.

Renaud is an almost accidental hotel owner, having worked and travelled all over Africa, and decided to buy the riad on a whim.  You half expect the riad to be self-service, but the staff are, in fact, extremely efficient and welcoming and best of all, unobtrusive. Having supplied us with a very detailed map and explanations of what we can find where, our host left us in peace.

I cannot sufficiently praise the unique and uncontrived atmosphere of Terrace des Oliviers – it is worth experiencing, even if you are accustomed to a Four Seasons standard, because hospitality is not about star ratings but about what makes you comfortable, just as travel is about enjoying the unexpected.