Travelling from St Moritz to Milan by train is nothing less than spectacular. The journey takes 5 hours with a change in Tirano, but for the first and longest portion at least, it is memorable for its intense beauty. The small, 5-6 carriage train moves, quite literally, across the Swiss Alps, on occasion appearing to hang perilously over steep snow-covered ravines. Those who have taken the trip because it is a UNESCO classified route are busy snapping away with their cameras. I am simply spell-bound but the wilderness and majestic splendour of it all. There are no ski resorts to be seen from the train – just the occasional stop-over with a stone tavern cum gazing spot.
The altitude is considerably higher than the famous ski station too – rising to 2800 m above sea level in places.
The vertiginous climb and then descent leave us quite tired and the 2-5 hours between Tirano and Milan are spent in a semi-somnambulic state.
It is dusk by the time we alight at Principe di Savoia, a monolithic building and 5 star hotel, part of the Dorchester Collection.
The Dorchester Group as a whole is distinctive for its unashamed grandeur. The original signature hotel in London, the Dorchester, is gilded to high heavens.
Its Milan sister’s lobby imitates a classic museum room, with its old Masters-like oils adorning the walls of the lobby and bar.
Comfortable sofas and armchairs, red marble floors, massive chandeliers, lavish flower displays….and an international mix of guests provide the first impressions.
We stay in a suite on the 4th floor and briefly speculate about the private lift to the left of the main one.
The suite mirrors the lobby, with its marble surfaces, marquetry furniture, heavy damask fabrics and a bathroom that’s the size of the bedroom.
Wifi is NOT complimentary, but the welcoming bottle of Prosecco might make up for that.
A brief exploration of the SixSenses spa reveals a medium sized pool on the top floor with a spa area wonderfully stocked with complimentary beauty products. The powerful jaccuzzi next to the pool is an absolute must. A fully equipped gym, a steam room and a sauna complete the spa.
Breakfast is the ubiquitous buffet, showcasing the smoked salmon and Bresaola we have been having throughout our trip, with a few pleasant surprises/variations on the theme.
Hugely recommended is the fresh strawberry juice/smoothie that appears to be a signature drink of the hotel. Coffee is served in oversized cups and is outstanding. The scrambled eggs ditto.
The restaurant’s garden is truly spectacular and sitting there in the summer must be utter bliss.
Guests are affluent and discreet, as one would expect. We spot some Russians, some Asians (Milan being the shopping capital of Europe), some Emiratis, some Brits and quite a few Italians too.
Interestingly, there appear to be a few business breakfasts taking place, even though it is a Saturday. Hardly surprising as business never sleeps these wired days and the buffet is extremely easy on both eyes and palate.
The social hub of Principe di Savoia is the bar. We whiled away an entire evening people watching there: slim model-like women, some simply dressed, others dripping with expensive jewellery – all polished to perfection and accessorized with somewhat older vintage men; couples whose relationship was unclear (all the more fun to speculate); tall Barbie-like girls with short assertive guys; confident Brits and suave Italians….
The DJ played romantic Italian songs, the drinks flowed easily and the snacks kept coming. We quite forgot about dinner.
Telephone: +39 02 62301
www.dorchestercollection.com/milan/hotel-principe–di–savoia
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