I wouldn’t call it fine dining, I’d call it exceptional dining. I visited Seven Park Place, the 1 Michelin Star restaurant in the St. James Hotel & Club and overseen byWilliam Drabble, curious as to what to expect. Ostentatious? Overwhelming? Understated? After all, Michelin Starred restaurants in London have fierce competition and the battleground is always seeing new culinary innovations. I have to say that the evening was perfect.
I waited at the William’s Baar & Bistro for my companion to join me, embarking on a smooth Elderflower Martini and her, when she arrived, trying the exotic Pink Jewel of India, two specialities of the bar. The bar is classic and elegantly decorated, with quirky drawings dotted around the walls. In fact, what we love about this establishment is its unique art collection which has been incorporated into the art deco interior, creating an elegant and fun atmosphere.
We progressed to the real deal: Seven Park Place. The restaurant, for a Wednesday night, was well-packed with both the old and young jovially appreciating the quality of the venue. We started with an amuse bouche, a melange of chicken, avocado, jelly and foam – a teaser initiation into the meal. For my started I had the carpaccio of hand diver scallops with finger lime, ginger and coriander. A tasty dish, it struck the perfect balance between the tender, subtly salty scallop carpaccio and the tarty citron flavour of the garnishings. This was paired with a New Zealand Riesling, Wild Eart (2012), with peachy and apricot notes; a light and fruity wine that complimented the citrus of the starter.
My companion chose (upon recommendation of our waitress) the boudin of wood pigeon and foie gras with caramelised turnips, morels and Madeira, the newest addition to the menu. And what an addition! Again, the balance was evident: to use a tautology, the meat was meaty, and the foie gras melted-in-your-mouth. A Pouilly-Fuisse, Domaine Saumaize-Michelin, France (2013), was chosen for us, a mineral-rich, slightly sweet and a heavier white that was perfect for the pigeon.
This was going to be hard to beat.
Having overheard various diners proclaim the merits of the turbot, that is what I chose, the fillet of turbot poached in Champagne with oysters, salsify and oyster leaf. The turbot was tender and oh-so-delicious in a champagne sauce, flavoured by the oystery taste of salsify. The highlight of this dish, which was very unexpected, were the slightly cooked oysters, presumably added at the end. It was faultless. An Austrian wine washed this down, the Gruner Veltliner Weinzierlberg (2013), with a vegetable aroma and herb garden undertones on the palette. My companion had the baked fillet of sea bass topped with marjoram crust, crushed Jersey royals and a fricassee of new season vegetables, coupled with the Gaisberg Riesling, Kamptal Reserve (2012). The sea bass was absolutely scrumptious, with hints of salt from the baking seeping through, and a bed of hearty vegetables to accompany. The Riesling, with salts, and mysteriously ore-like notes, as well as apple and white peach was a beautiful and smooth choice. (All wines were recommended by the fabulous sommelier, Marco Feraldi.)
At this point we were both pleasantly filled with exquisite flavours and decided to forego dessert in favour of fresh mint tea, at which point we were presented with a pretty array of petit fours and, the piece de resistance, fresh marshmallows!
What I enjoyed the most was that everything was just so. Nothing was overwhelming (in size or tastes) but the art of balance was employed, whilst still ensuring a rich and fulfilling gastronomical odyssey for each and every diner.
Definitely a place to visit at least once.
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