Some things never change, thank God, and one of them is the timeless elegance of Suvretta House.
The writer of this feature has been coming to St Moritz for a long, long time and afternoon tea at Suvretta was the highlight of her visits as a very young girl.
And so it was with some trepidation that I crossed the threshold of this venerable establishment, not quite sure what to expect after too many years… On my left is an exhibition of Miro, Chagal, Poliakoff and other modern greats. Ahead of me is the vast sun-drenched wood-beamed lobby where everyone gathers for drinks or just to be sociable.
The Anton bar is at one end of the lobby; the main restaurant at the other.
My room has spectacular views from two windows giving on different sides of the mountains and a welcome bottle of Laurent Perrier puts me in a self-indulgent mode even if it is quite early in the day. A walk around the hotel makes me feel as if I’ve rediscovered a long-lost friend.
If there are changes under the new management of the Eglys who took over from the Jacobs in 2014, they are subtle – which is as it should be.
Suvretta House is, you see, an institution – not just another 5 star hotel. First of all, its chateau-like proportions and architecture are quite distinctive, as is its position, some 2 km outside of St Moritz, on the grounds of its own vast Alpine parkland. Suvretta House is an estate, in fact, and offers its guests the unparalleled luxury of skiing down the slopes all the way to its entrance.
Secondly, having opened its doors at the outset of the Belle Époque, it has a history as rich as they come, with some of the most distinguished names from the worlds of royalty, movies and politics having enjoyed all it has to offer – or even learned to ski there (and the ski facilities are truly state-of-the-art).
There is an excellent reason why different generations of the same families keep coming to ski in the winter and hike in summer – this reason is continuity.
It isn’t just the wood panelled halls, vaulted ceilings, the massive wood “Gone with the Wind” staircase, open fires, lofty armchairs and grandly ornate main restaurant – nor is it the service, which has to be among the best in the world.
It is all of those things, but also, the expectation that guests would adhere to certain standards that are fast vanishing around us. It is as if Suvretta House has appointed itself perennial keeper of these standards by maintaining a dress code that harks back to a more elegant era. Its clients are a microcosm – a world of its own. People-watching at dinner and breakfast time is an experience, even if you inhabit the same world.
Ski and Spa
The spa is where some of the more recent changes have been implemented. Gone is La Prairie brand; in is Ila, with its organic products. Giant windows offer a view of the surrounding mountains, shimmering during the day and darkly enchanting at night. The indoor pool is vast as befits a hotel of such pedigree. The outdoor heated whirlpool is not just deeply indulging – it offers a feast to the eyes, with the dancing snowflakes around and the mountains peaks in the distance. Just beyond is the skating area where you can practise your skills or book an instructor. The gym offers a daily program of activities and/or a personal trainer. It is compact and not in the least intimidating as larger, fully staffed hotel gyms tend to be.
Suvretta House takes its skiing very seriously. There is a proper skiing school, the Suvretta Snow Sports School, with a large number of resident instructors.
The south-westerly slopes provide up to 600 metres elevation and deserve their reputation as Europe’s best ski destination.
Who goes to Suvretta House
People who like discretion, superb service (a guest is never left unattended) and enjoying a skiing or summer Alpine holiday in the company of their peers. If you do not have the correct wardrobe (or prefer informal attire at all times), you’d feel ill at ease at Suvretta House.
Tel. +41 (0)818 36 36 36
info@suvrettahouse.ch
http://www.suvrettahouse.ch/en/117/default.aspx
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